The alarm went off at 6am. I lay there for a while, enjoying my bed, this cute apartment, and how grateful I felt to have been able to stay here. I then got up and got started. Today will be a long one.

After my croissant & egg sandwich, and after checking around again, I set the key on the kitchen counter, picked up my bags, stepped out, took a deep breath, and pulled the door shut behind me. I heard the lock click shut, and I turned to see the taxi pulling up. As we loaded my bags into the car, I took a last look at the scene that had become so familiar. I looked towards Pont Neuf, the Seine River, and north towards Notre Dame. There in the faint dawn sky, was the new moon. Time for new beginnings. Time to return and make an old life new again. Time to infuse myself with new projects, new ideas, new ways of living. Time to keep living. Life, after all, is a precious gift.

…As the plane lifted into the air, I turned and looked back at the Paris skyline. The Eiffel Tower was clearly visible, and I was able to gaze at it as I said goodbye.  A plus tard, Paris. I will see you later!

One day I walked over to the beautiful old flower market to buy some flowers. Since it was nearby, I also checked out the line for Sainte-Chapelle; even passed through their security with my flowers, and saw how long the line was to buy a ticket. So I headed home, and found that I could buy a skip-the-line ticket online. I made a great cheese, tomato and lettuce sandwich on a sourdough olive baguette for a quick lunch and went back over to Saint-Chapelle. (Secret: go late in the day, with the afternoon sun shining in the windows.) It was breath-taking to sit or stand there immersed in all that sparkling jewel-like color. I stayed nearly 2 hours. And yes, I got to skip a long line and go right in…! For no extra money!

Paris truly is a remarkable city.  I wish I actually lived here. It would be different as a resident, but would settle into a rhythm that you can never get as a visitor. I was sitting by the fountain at Palais Royal the other day…yesterday actually, and looking up at the apartments that surround the gardens and beautiful fountain. And thinking about what it would feel like to call one of them “home”.  To make a nest and decorate it, and to come and go from it, as I wanted to. I like to be inside a beautiful home, knowing that there is so much out there to go see, when I feel like going out.

It was just after those thoughts that I moved along a short distance, and heard an opera singer amoungst the columned arcade of the Palais Royal. There I stayed for a while, intrigued by his talent. He was singing in a high soprano voice, and dressed in expensive and custom made artistic clothing and shoes. It’s possible that he is famous?  I took photos of him, and tonight, having researched it, I think I may have been listening to 36 year old Nicholas Tamagna, countertenor. I innocently dropped what change I had, about 40cents, into his box. He probably didn’t need it!  I have heard stories of talent that performs in subways and street corners, unrecognized, just for the fun of it. Maybe? Ahhh, Paris.

Bonjour! Had another day in Paris today. I rode the metro, a bit south to another flea market I’d read about. Didn’t see anything I wanted, but had been looking for small cute things. Then I rode up to the Organic Marche, the weekly market of produce, baked goods, cheeses, and some scarves and baby clothes. And I got off at the right stop. Felt happy to be managing the metro. It’s such a part of Paris culture. Bought another delicious tomato tart for dinner tonight. Then I walked up to the Saint-Sulpice church for another Sunday pipe-organ performance. That is the subject of this post. Without getting into data, facts, and comparisons, let’s just say that Saint-Sulpice Is also one of the oldest and most important cathedrals in Paris. All of these churches have their pre-medieval history, that was torn down, or partially burnt down, then rebuilt, then added onto. It’s hard to say what year(s) they were built. All of them are magnificent, and full of vibes and mystery. Choc full of impressions to feel, and wonder about, and learn about. Anyway, when I am in Paris, I never miss a Sunday performance of the HUGE pipe-organ at Saint-Sulpice, played always, as far as I know, by world famous Daniel Roth. So again today, I was there. The 3rd time this visit. After the service, he plays for 20 minutes to 1/2 hour. And he plays whatever he wants. The acoustics in the high-ceilinged cathedral are extraordinary. We all sit there, astounded, and some of us know about sound vibration healing, so we soak in that, too. Afterwards, he comes to the balcony of the organ, and we all applaud him. It’s my favorite thing to do in Paris. It really is. And I hope someday you will find yourself there, listening and feeling those notes from that organ. Here are a few photos of Saint-Sulpice that I’ve taken: 

The other day, I had the pleasure of viewing a large collection of art by Alphonse Mucha, a favorite artist. He is one of the principle artists of the Art Nouveau period, again a favorite period of art for me. And to see it here in Paris was wonderful. Here are some photos I got while at the exhibit:

It’s the evening of November 1st, All Saints Day, and I have found myself in one of the oldest churches in Paris, St Severen, 11th century or older. I love the quiet meditative space in the old churches, where people have gathered for centuries to lay bare their souls, unite in marriage, celebrate birth, or honor the dead. The church bells, so very old, begin to ring, and for a long time. Afterwards, sitting here in the quiet, I now see people beginning to arrive for an evening service. Several quite elderly people join the group, bent with age and supported by canes. Well dressed, but in older clothing. The women have pretty pins in their white hair, and rings on, that may have been their great-grandmother’s? Are these lifelong Parisians? Did they experience the horrors of WW2, and the occupation of Paris? I am humbled to find myself with these people. All of us here tonight are united in the moment, and in our humanity. Some have come to confess transgressions, and knowing they are forgiven, pray for the ability to forgive themselves. I feel my own heart open to my own tears. A beautiful pipe organ plays, and we sing prayers, for ourselves, our families, and for the world. Tonight, on All Saints Day.

It’s 4:30, and getting dark on a cold rainy day in Paris. I am sitting at a small table by a window, upstairs at Laduree, a patisserie founded in 1862. Across from me in the little room are a few other tables, 2 crystal chandeliers, a wall covered in beautiful flowered fabric in grey greens, cream and red. There is a flower box of white begonias outside my window. I have ordered and am awaiting my chocolate chaud and an apple pastry. I could sit here all day, and in Paris, that’s almost always OK. My chocolat chaud arrives. Rich and thick, served in a small metal pitcher that keeps it warm. Ummmm…What a delight. The apple pastry is flaky and delicious. I can overhear the lovely French being spoken at the table next to me. I can’t understand much but I think it’s about traveling to set up a new place to live.

I have been in Paris without Dave for about 12 days. I fly home a few days from now. It’s been interesting to be in Europe without him. It was added to our travel plans this trip as a bit of an experiment. How is solo travel for me? How does it feel? I’m very adventurous, but I like to hold Dave’s hand while doing so.  I chose Paris, because I know it well. I chose this AirBnB because it’s so centrally located. Right by the Pont Neuf, steps from the River Seine. It’s on the ground floor of a 300 year old building. It’s very cute. There are bricks in the kitchen wall, old beams in the ceiling of the kitchen & living room. Downstairs a few steps is the bedroom and bathroom. It has a spacious shower, and a washer and dryer, all rare in Paris. One thing it does not have are any real windows to look out of. It’s quiet too, and therefore I, never a morning person anyway, stay up late and get up late. If I want to know what the weather is doing, I have to open the front door and peek out. But what a beautiful cocoon.

When I’m ready for adventure, I step out the door, and THERE is Paris! The streets are full of little shops and places selling delicious gourmet takeaway food, and wine, and those famous French croissants and baguettes. I have my favorite shops, and often bring home a slice of vegetarian quiche for dinner and a croissant for the morning. Fresh produce is everywhere. Or, oh gosh:

Any direction I choose is full of history, and parks, and art, and fashion, and all sorts of mystery.  And so I wander. Yesterday’s walk was 6 hours long. Today’s, very short. So far. But now, I’m sitting under the arches of an 11th century church, St Severen, writing. Outside, Paris is an ever-changing kaleidoscope, and many people wander, captivated and intrigued, as I am.

It was time to say goodbye to our red car. It had to come to an end eventually. I really liked that car, and it’s beautiful shade of red. It was fun to see it waiting for us in so many places. It was easy to find, too! But, we had not wanted to actually drive into Paris, so the ingenious plan was to get close enough to Paris to get reasonable transport into the city to our AirBnB. Hence, Creteil. Nothing special to say about that town. Just a good drop-off point. So thanks Red Car, for a great time. B’bye. Or we should say “ Au revoir” . Now it was time for Paris!  Those stories are many, and coming up next!

Our Red Car Road Trip continued on to the next stop. The guy that Dave had met on the trail back in St. Antonin who recommended Uzes in Provence, also recommended Troyes, a medieval town in the Champagne region. A few hours east of Paris. We had liked his advice before, so to Troyes (pronounced Twah) we went. It’s not very touristy. A French friend asked how we’d heard of it. Ha! From a man on a trail in the woods! Great town. Well preserved OLD town center, very walkable, lots of places serving food and varieties of champagne, and the liqueur that you can pretty much only get there: Prunelle de Troyes. Golden, sweet, richly flavored quite strong liqueur made from plums. Ohhh la la.

This time we stayed in a budget 16th-century half-timbered house. Cute, charming actually, but the AirBnB host could do so much more with the place. It was kinda bare bones, but clean, quiet, comfortable, and cheap, and we were only there 2 nights. I’ll have to come back and help her decorate!  Troyes was also an early center for the Knights Templar, a mysterious group of monks who became warriors to protect others, and answered only to the Pope. Their organization grew huge, and spread far and wide, as far north as Ireland and Scotland. For 200 years, until a serious falling out with the Pope, who turned against them, and had them jailed or killed or burned at the stake as heretics. So, here is Troyes, in all her ancient glory. Do visit sometime, & enjoy!

If the Pyrenees are the “Spanish” part of France, and Provence the “Italian” part, then surely we went on to “Germany” by visiting the eastern part of France. Once again, the climate, the culture, the architecture, the weather and landscape all changed. The eastern part of France shares some of it’s border with Germany (and Switzerland). The Rhine River flows right along that border between the two countries. Over the centuries, the boundaries have blended and blurred and relocated. This is another wine region, for both France and Germany, and on the French side it’s called the Alsace. From Strasbourg in the north to south of Colmar, castle ruins sit on low mountains that overlook gentle hills covered in vineyards and picturesque small villages; it’s La Route Des Vins. And yes, it looks like Germany. We picked the smallish town of Colmar for our base, and stayed 5 nights. This time, right at the edge of the old town, where it was less touristy and quiet at night. Colmar is popular and has its tourists, and some of them can get a little too excited at night. When they could be sleeping ? Gotta get that precious sleep! Our AirBnB was on the 4th floor of an apartment building, and we looked out over the medieval rooftops of Colmar from our balcony. It was very luxurious inside, so we were super comfortable there! And a quick elevator ride to the ground floor had you at the entrance to…the grocery store! How convenient. Plus we had a lockable garage space in the building’s underground parking lot. Great for 5 or 6 days. During which we walked the town, snapped a lot of photos, got the car out of the garage and took a day trip across the Rhine to similar villages in Germany, and….went on an afternoon tour on e-bikes around Colmar, then down to the next tiny village of Eguishheim, where we rode through vineyards and stopped for great wine tasting in the cellar of a winery owned for 12 generations in the same family. Those e-bikes were great, and are already the latest and greatest trend. For seniors! You peddle, but they are motorized and assist you getting up the hills. Where you can see a lot of interesting stuff! Look out world. I have grouped the German photos together, but you can’t tell which they are I bet!